Reluctantly we left Tortuguero, the Amazon-like enclave on the Caribbean, and once more cruised down the river to meet the coach that was to take us up into the hills to this country´s adventure hub, the town of La Fortuna. On the way, at one place, we came across a level crossing sign. I thought Costa Rica had no railways? But here was a narrow gauge track, which didn't seem to have been used for some considerable time. Indeed, at one point a bridge had disappeared completely but the track remained. I found later that the railway had been used in former times to transport coffee to the port.

We stopped to stretch our legs at a fruit farm and market, where we could sample all kinds of fruit, both familiar and unfamiliar. It made me wonder if this important export of Costa Rica is available in our shops and supermarkets - and if not, why not?

Our accommodation is a cabin in an extensive complex, from which it is alleged there is a good view of Mount Arenal, but we never found it. We did have a view of the volcano on the way here, but not a very good one. Eric the guide said that, at this time of year, the mountain was usually obscured by cloud, and Mauricio the driver was hard put to find somewhere he could park the coach safely, but keep the number of intervening overhead cables to a minimum.

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