In the Chile Lakes Region on the south-central coast just under two hours by air from capital Santiago, lies the Chiloé Archipelago, its largest island one of this fascinating country's most fascinating destinations - a mix of wild nature and mountainous interior, pristine beaches, and distinctive architecture (including more than 150 historic wood churches) that's like taking a time machine back a century. And while cattle ranching, farming, and fishing still form the backbone of many chilotes' (locals') livelihoods, tourism is on the rise and more and more visitors are discovering these islands' rough-hewn charm.

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