It’s certainly tempting to think of Grand Manan as God's shrug of land surrounded by a vast, changing and beautiful sea. There is something about small fishing villages on islands that holds my heart tightly, especially those snuggled against rocky coasts with mists hovering like shifting shrouds. Partly it's the pitched, jarring sound of gulls or the air heavy with the scent of salt and fish.

But I think it's...

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