Before the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, Bulgaria for Westerners was tucked even farther than most behind the old Iron Curtain. Today the differences are truly astonishing to see: a country vibrant with energy – though obviously not without its problems. And its capital Sofia – with a population of 1.2 million, yet fairly accessible (and bargain priced!) for the visitor – is the place where this energy is especially showcased (though it’s often bypassed by visitors who head right for other parts of the country like the Black Sea coastal resorts in places like Varna and Bourgas). 

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