Central Rio de Janeiro is most famous for the likes of Ipanema and Copacabana. But in many ways its most exciting and dynamic scene – along with a plethora of cultural and historic landmarks – is to be found north of them, in the venerable district known as Lapa, adjoining Centro (downtown). 

Not long ago considered a bit dodgy due to street crime and delapidation, Lapa has recently benefited from joint efforts by city hall and residents to renovate the area and increase security in some of its problem spots, and so has recovered a good bit of its delightfully boho character – and maybe then some, becoming quite the hotspot for hipsters, hippies, and visitors to Rio thanks to its very carioca (local) and cosmopolitan vibe.Foremost among the abovementioned landmarks is the Carioca Aqueduct (top, aka the Arcos de Lapa), a large white structure dating back to 1750 which since 1896 has instead of water supported a tramway which these days is a popular tourist attraction.

Surrounded it are charming little streets and pastel colonial buildings with elegant balconies, among which chic cariocas love to sit at outdoor cafés nursing chopps (frosty draft beers); enjoy samba at local clubs; and browse the antiques shops especially along Rua da Lavradio (a street which also hosts a cool open-air market the first Saturday of every month).

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