As we head toward the end of the year marking the 50th anniversary of the Civil Rights Act, I found myself visiting America's oldest continuously occupied city for the first time since a long-ago trip with my family as a kid. I expected to find some of the same things - the massive old Castillo San Marcos fort and the historic downtown, of course, plus a whole raft of new amenities and attractions. And that I certainly did. But I also found something else which took me completely by surprise: more than once, this city broke significant ground in the history of black men and women in North America, and what's more, all of us owe events that happened here a bigger debt than many of us realize.... keep reading