On a recent trip to Aiken, South Carolina (just over an hour south of state capital Columbia and a half hour from Augusta, Georgia), I received as a gift a book titled When I think of Aiken, written by Michael Gibbons and illustrated by Betsy Wilson-Mahoney, two long-time residents of Aiken who shared in words and drawings their memories of growing up and living much of their lives in this beautiful southern charmer of a city.
The book gave me pause to try and remember what I thought of Aiken before visiting for the first time. I realized quite quickly, not much, other than erroneously thinking the city was named for the great southern writer Conrad Aiken for some mysterious reason. It’s actually named for William Aiken, a man who never visited the city named after hi -, but more on that later.
Southern Charm-Plus
I can say that four days later, when our first of several visits was over, I knew a lot more. Aiken is a must-visit destination for so many wonderful and enlightening reasons. It’s blend of horse country and related annual events, railroad history, superb restaurants, shopping, all aspects of the sporting life, and history. Plus that ever present southern charm and gorgeous seasons.
Let’s start with the somewhat intriguing relationship between Aiken and the northeast region of the United States, especially New York.
The Railroad
In the early 1800’s, what is now Aiken was located almost on the border with Georgia along the Savannah River when this sleepy little town was determined to be an ideal place for the terminus of a growing new means of transportation. The South Carolina Canal and Railroad Company (first president of which was the aforementioned William Aiken.) operating between Charleston, South Carolina, and Aiken. This planned city due to its terminus at the end of the railroad line helped popularize Aiken. Further connections later in the 19th century made travel from the Northeast more accessible, and the wealthy were able to easily transport their horses and staff to Aiken for the winter.
The Sunday polo matches VIP section complete with food and libations
Thomas Hitchcock and William H. Whitney were two of the many wealthy New Yorkers belonging to the exclusive equestrian society who longed for a warmer place to spend away from the frigid winters of the Northeast. Thus was born the Aiken Winter Colony, and now wealthy New Yorkers (and others) had a place to be warm and bring their beloved horses as they do to this day.
Aiken Railroad Station, Visitors Center and Museum
The first part of any visit to Aiken should begin with a visit to the old Aiken railroad station, which has been restored and converted into the Aiken Visitors Center and Train Museum. Besides getting all the information you might need to further enjoy your visit you can spend an amazing amount of time at the fabulous second-floor museum featuring “in the round” glass encased works of early Aiken in miniature size perfectly proportion exhibits. It’s the finest exhibit in miniature of a city that I have ever seen. Outside there are two Pullman railroad cars that will be restored, and you will be able to understand the thrill of watching the trains come in with their wealthy passengers but just as importantly their horses. Yes, Aiken is indeed horse country and so much more. Here you can purchase tickets for an excellent two-hour narrated trolley tour of Aiken (with a stop or two) and it is a great way to get to know the city before you explore on your own. The tour guides are fantastic!
Places to Stay
There are many great places to stay in and around Aiken from historic to modern, for any budget or even on a golf course! We stayed at the Inn at Houndslake, which is just five minutes from downtown. Owner Kim McNeely is a really friendly and well-known business and horse world personality. She graciously told us of the rich history of the hotel from its connection to the golf course to the really cool history of her father’s involvement in the site. The rooms are spacious, freshly renovated, immaculate with great views to the course greenery outside and it’s really quiet. A perfect place to relax after a good day exploring in Aiken. The entire staff at Houndslake was friendly helpful and made us feel better than at home!
Let’s Eat!
We experienced the culinary scene in Aiken at multiple eateries, and they were all spectacular. The Wilcox also an outstanding Inn is a strong favorite, Rose Hill Estate with its outstanding dining and historic Inn, and Malia’s fabulous kitchen. There are also interesting casual eateries like Betsy’s On The Corner spread everywhere.
The Wilcox Hotel
The Willcox Hotel Is a landmark both as an eatery and hotel. The staff treats you to a relaxing and delicious culinary experience just like the old time wealthy patrons enjoyed - and who indeed made it their place of choice for fine dining. Now it has great lunches too and the setting is just grand with the beautiful woodwork throughout the hotel. We make a point to dine here at least once on all our visits to the area.
Rose Hill
The Historic Rose Hill estate with massive gardens, a beautiful Inn and fine restaurant “The Stables,” a joy ride of cuisine and just something not to be missed. The main reasons are the owners Eva Mueller and her son Stephen. There is a wonderful menu and delightful Eva can regale you with her tales of the history of this interesting historic complex. She is usually on hand to greet hotel and dinner guests and her personal background and history are also fascinating Stephen is truly a southern gentleman and well-versed in the history and people of Aiken.
The wedding chapel at Rose Hill
Set between the main house and the former stables now a restaurant in a charming garden nook on the side of a hill. Who wouldn’t want their wedding in this magical spot?
Malia’s on Laurens Street, still makes my mouth water when I think of the meal we had there. Owner/chef Malia Koelker, with executive chef Michael McFadden, present a truly eclectic menu, so fresh and enjoyable. The well-prepared staff was incredibly knowledgeable and attentive. The dining room with its art, carefully planned seating, lighting, soft music and soothing colors istruly the calm oasis. We cannot wait to go back.
The Track Kitchen
By the way, if you want a truly different experience for breakfast visit the Track Kitchen by the famous Aiken Horse Training Tracks and eat and enjoy the atmosphere just like the trainers, jockeys and grooms do. A great fun time! Plus now you know how we’ve put these extra ten pounds on!
The sporting life, especially with the equestrian events in Hitchcock Woods and at the Whitney Polo Field will take one into the world of horse and rider, the feeling of a gentler and perhaps a more sophisticated society. I had never attended a polo match before and it was a grand festive time especially watching what the spectators do at halftime! (I’m not telling, you have to go!) Events are year round so please check with the visitor’s bureau for dates and updates. Aiken has its own version of an equine “Triple Crown” so check that out also.
History
If you love history of all kinds Aiken is filled to the brim. Do not miss visiting the Aiken County Historical Museum (above), the Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame and Museum, and the Hopeland Gardens. Also try to visit the Gaston Livery Stable which is being restored to its 1893 grandeur and features one of the five remaining carriage lifts left in the country. Hopefully, you’ll get to meet and talk with two of the leaders of the project, Colleen Reed and Elliott Levy, about the plans for the barns use as an arts and culture venue. And you will get great pictures!
Hitchcock Woods
Finally, if you just want a relaxing walk or to feel like Robin Hood, visit the largest urban forest in the United States and that’s Aiken’s 2,000-acre Hitchcock Woods. It’s a breakout into trees and fauna and trails and quiet. Many equestrian events are held year round in this wonderful setting (top). Perhaps it would be a great way for you to answer the question …..”When I think of Aiken I think of…?”
Stomping the divots at a polo match!
Last but not least, while you are enjoying the very walkable downtown with a really eclectic assortment of stores and art venues, visit the Aiken Center for the Arts on Laurens Street which is the epicenter of the shopping experience in Aiken. Take time for an old fashioned lunch at Betsy’s On The Corner. Freshly made soups, burgers, hot dogs and specialty sandwiches followed by a homemade dessert is just the pick me up you might want.
Please check out the sites below for more information on Aiken:
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