Planning an expedition to Bandarpunch (6316m) — one of the most iconic peaks in the Garhwal Himalayas — is a serious but deeply rewarding endeavor. Known as the “Monkey’s Tail,” this massif holds historical, cultural, and mountaineering significance. With three notable peaks — Bandarpunch I (6316m), Bandarpunch II or White Peak (6102m), and Kalanag or Black Peak (6387m) — the region is a perfect training ground for budding alpinists. This guide walks you through everything you need to know to plan and prepare for a successful Bandarpunch expedition.
1. Understand the Mountain and Its History
Bandarpunch is located in the Western Garhwal range of Uttarakhand. The mountain rose to prominence in 1950 after a successful expedition led by Maj Gen Harold Williams, with legendary mountaineer Tenzing Norgay as part of the team. Later, The Doon School used it for mountaineering training, giving it the nickname “The Doon School Mountain.” Today, it continues to be a classic training peak for Indian mountaineers.
The peak is approached most commonly via the south-east ridge, a route pioneered by the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) in 1975.
2. Choosing the Right Time to Climb
The best seasons to climb Bandarpunch are:
Pre-monsoon (May–early June): Favorable snow conditions and longer days.
Post-monsoon (September–October): Clear skies and cold, stable weather.
Avoid the monsoon months (July–August) due to landslides, heavy snowfall, and logistical challenges.
3. Obtain Permits and Clearances
Mandatory Approvals:
IMF (Indian Mountaineering Foundation): Expeditions must register and attend briefing/debriefing at the IMF in Delhi.
Forest and Wildlife Permits: Since the trek passes through the Govind Pashu Vihar National Park.
Climbing Permit: Required for summiting Bandarpunch, coordinated through the IMF.
If going with a registered expedition company, they usually handle all the paperwork.
4. Physical and Technical Preparation
Fitness Requirements:
You need excellent cardiovascular endurance, leg strength, and stamina. Train for at least 3–4 months before the expedition, focusing on:
Long hikes with a weighted backpack (10–15kg)
Stair climbing or hill sprints
Core and leg workouts
High-altitude treks for acclimatization (e.g., Roopkund, Pangarchulla, Stok Kangri)
Technical Skills:
This is a semi-technical peak. You should be comfortable with:
Crampon walking
Ice axe use and self-arrest
Jumar (ascender) and descender technique
Rope management and knot tying
Walking with a loaded pack on snow and ice
Consider enrolling in a Basic/Advanced Mountaineering Course if this is your first 6000m peak.
5. Logistics & Itinerary Planning
A standard Bandarpunch expedition takes around 21 days, Delhi to Delhi.
Sample Itinerary Breakdown:
Days 1–2: IMF briefing in Delhi, drive to Dehradun and Uttarkashi
Days 3–4: Trek starts from Sukhi, camp at Forest Camp and Base Camp
Days 5–7: Acclimatization and load ferry to Camp 1 (4450m)
Days 8–11: Move progressively to Camp 2 (5180m), Summit Camp (5400m)
Day 13: Summit push (early night start)
Days 14–17: Return to Base Camp, rest, and descend
Days 18–21: Return to Uttarkashi, Dehradun, and IMF debriefing in Delhi
Always include at least one contingency day for weather or acclimatization issues.
6. Gear Checklist
Essential Personal Gear:
Mountaineering boots (Double-layer) like La Sportiva or Scarpa
Crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness
Jumar, figure 8 descender, carabiners, slings
Headlamp with extra batteries
Down jacket, insulated pants, and base layers
Gore-Tex jacket and pants
Gloves (inner, fleece, and shell), gaiters
Sleeping bag (-20°C to -30°C) and inflatable sleeping mat
Trekking poles, sunglasses, snow goggles
Group Gear (Usually Provided by Organizers):
Ropes (dynamic and static)
Tents (high-altitude grade)
Stoves, fuel, cooking gear
Group food and medical supplies
If renting, expect to pay around INR 10,000–15,000 for the full gear kit.
7. Food and Hydration
Nutrition plays a crucial role in summit success:
At lower camps: Dal, rice, pasta, veggies, eggs — prepared by cooks.
At high camps: Freeze-dried meals, instant noodles, soup, energy bars.
Snacks: Carry energy bars, trail mix, ORS, chocolate, glucose powder.
Hydrate constantly — aim for 4–5 liters per day, especially at altitude to combat AMS.
8. Acclimatization Strategy
The itinerary includes multiple rotations above Base Camp:
Load ferries to Camp 1 and higher camps
Acclimatization hikes (e.g., hike to 5000m and return to Camp 1)
2–3 nights at each altitude level before summit push
Follow the golden rule: "Climb high, sleep low." Never rush the ascent.
9. Safety and Emergency Planning
Common Risks:
AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)
Frostbite or hypothermia
Crevasses between Camp 1 and summit
Carry:
AMS medication (Diamox), painkillers, antibiotics
Pulse oximeter to monitor oxygen levels
Satellite phone or walkie-talkies
Emergency evacuation plan — discuss this with your expedition leader
10. Cost Planning
The total cost from Delhi to Delhi can range from INR 2,35,000 – INR 2,75,000 depending on operator, services, and gear rentals. This typically includes:
Transport, permits, accommodation
Meals, guide fee, logistics support
Climbing and camping equipment (shared)
Exclusions usually involve:
Personal gear
Tips and snacks
Insurance and evacuation
Unforeseen expenses
11. Insurance and Documentation
Before you go:
Buy high-altitude travel insurance with evacuation coverage
Carry ID copies, passport-sized photos, and fitness certificates
Inform your family or emergency contact about the plan
Conclusion
Climbing Bandarpunch is not just a physical challenge — it's a journey through history, mythology, and the raw beauty of the Himalayas. Whether you’re using it as a stepping stone to bigger peaks or fulfilling a personal dream, proper planning is the key. With the right training, gear, logistics, and mindset, Bandarpunch offers a deeply fulfilling and transformative mountaineering experience.
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