It's harvest time in Champagne again - not to mention a most agreeable time of year to visit this lovely and historic region some 100 miles east of Paris, with its main townsReims (whose landmarks include a Roman triumphal arch and a lovely 13th-century cathedral) and Épernay. It's especially appealing because it's so bucolic and not particularly touristy, and you can visit famous names like Taittinger and Moët Chandon, and see ancient wine caves... keep reading