Now is the winter of our discontent/Made glorious summer by this sun of York.
— William Shakespeare, Richard III
For visitors to England, when it comes to cities London often (and understandably) gets most of the attention. But especially if you're a history buff as I am, one city you should put on your bucket list is York, four hours north. For this Yorkshire urb of 202,000 is the proud home to a historic quarter that's a time capsule like few others in Britain.
It all starts in the old walled city, and specifically on the old city walls, which unlike many others in the U.K. are still largely intact; you can climb up and walk all two miles (3½ kilometres), or just sample a section. Either way, it will deliver some marvelous views of the atmospheric old town, and dozens of gates/towers such as Monk Bar, Walmgate Bar, Micklegate Bar, and Bootham Bar ("bar" is an archaic word for gate; several of these also contain historic displays on city history, as well as on key historical figures such as Richard III and Henry VII).
And prize among the aforementioned views from the walls is that of this city's crown jewel, the York Minster - truly one of the great cathedrals of Europe. The Gothic masterpiece we see today (the second largest in northern Europe) was built from the 13th to 15th century and includes enormous stained-glass windows which are nothing short of glorious.
But there's heaps more; highlights include doughty stone Clifford's Tower (below), dramatically perched atop a mound in the city centre; it dates back to William the Conqueror and its current incarnation back to the 13th century. Right near the tower - which is actually the keep of the York Castle complex - is the York Castle Museum, housed in the castle's onetime prison, built in the 18th century. It houses recreated period rooms (even an entire Victorian-era street), as well as displays devoted to toys and prisons (including of course the actual ontime gaol cells). I would also highly recommend visiting the Yorkshire Museum to explore artifacts and multimedia presentations covering this area back into the mists of prehistory.
Another don't-miss is the Jorvik Viking Centre, a remarkable museum built on the site of the settlement which a thousand years ago was the nucleus for the later city of York (as well as gave its name, derived from the Old Norse Jorvik); here you'll find a magnificent mix of excavations, exhibitions, and recreations of Viking-era streets.
Speaking of streets, much of the enchantment of visiting the old walled city is strolling the passed timbered façades over the ancient cobblestones of narrow, atmospheric lanes such as The Shambles (right) and popping into spots such as Barley Hall, a one-time residence of the lord mayor dating back to 1360 and rediscovered only in the 1980s; and Merchant Adventurers' Hall of the same period, set up with displays offering more fascinating insight into the York of yore. And of course there's also a plethora of pubs (more than 365, actually), many of which have also been around for centuries: the Lamb and Lion, the Snickleway Inn. But I think I'd have to award best name (and a most honorable mention indeed for historic ambiance) to the 800-year-old House of Trembling Madness. (I hasten to add, by the way, that these are just the medieval spots - the locals like their partying, and there's also no shortage of more modern drinking, dining, and entertainment spots.)
In addition to all the strolling, another great way to get a novel and very cool perspective on the city is a cruise on the York Boat, which floats you along the River Ouse all year round except for December and January. This and more than 30 of the above and other other key sites, attractions, and activities are free if you buy a York Pass (£19-36 per day, depending on the number of days you buy it for; it's £9-20 for kids).
All in all, all the makings of a most stimulating visit indeed - as a Yorkshire local would say, eeh, by gum, you'll be 'appy as a pig in muck!
More information: VisitYork.com, Jorvik.co.uk.
images | Richie Chan/Shutterstock, WDGPhoto/Shutterstock, Poliphilo, Daveahern
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